In my experience side by sides are the least efficient use of their space. Its hard to stack most frozen foods up tall and narrow because they slide around and will slide out the front every time you open the door. Freezer top or freezer bottom units can be packed a lot more efficiently since it maximizes horizontal space and I vastly prefer them.

“Nothing smart” is the only other appliance rule.

If you’re interested in energy efficiency, here’s a great video from Technology Connections!

Yes the headline is about chest freezers, but he just uses that as an example of highest possible efficiency before getting into other design of fridge/freezers

Side-by-sides require you to pretty much squat to get to the items on the lowest shelves. Consider taking a look at units that have a freezer drawer instead. Go to the store, and try accessing the bottom items in both kinds see which one is easier for you. This is especially important if you or someone in your family has a bad back.

Check to see how the shelves adjust. Compare to what you currently have in your home. Some refrigerators allow you to split shelves. Other others have a single shelf that goes the entire width of the refrigerator. For example, where would you put the leftover pizza box? Or the milk carton? Can the doors hold the items that are currently in your fridge doors?

When shopping, be sure to look at the warranty, especially on the compressor. Some of the warranties are really lousy. Repairing the cooling system (compressor and coolant refill) can cost just out of warranty as buying a new refrigerator. LG for example has a 10 year warranty on some of their compressors, but not all of their models. Be sure to check the warranty on the specific model you are buying.

Some refrigerators have icemakers in the door, some of them in the freezer. In my experience it doesn’t matter which you choose. having a bunch of ice located in the freezer helps keep it cool. What is more important is if you want a filtered water dispenser. If this is the case, I recommend getting one on the door exterior so you don’t have to let all the chilled air out while you fill a glass or pitcher. The exception is that some Samsung models include a pitcher that’s kept automatically filled in the refrigerator door. However, this pitcher is plastic, so that may be a concern depending on your views on microplastics.

If you are worried about where your appliances manufactured, you’re going to need to look at the label inside the fridge. It will sayon the label. You can’t really just rely on a brand, since brands have factories in multiple countries. You should also be aware that there aren’t a lot of brands really left. Most of the brands have been allowed to merge into a handful companies. You can look up the brand on Wikipedia to see who the actual manufacturer is.

I encourage you to take actual measurements of the appliance at a store. Relying on the measurements on a website can be very confusing. Some depth measurements include the depth of the doors, some do not some specified depths with handles, some do not you need to measure the space where your fridge will fit this includes height, width, and depth.

This is not helpful but I just want to kvetch. It seems like any appliances you buy nowadays are just so shitty compared to even ten years ago. Even brands that have long been reliable are so hit or miss. I have a mini-fridge that’s almost 30 years old and still works fine. I keep being tempted to buy one with a better freezer or that’s more energy-efficient but I worry it would kick the bucket and be unrepairable within 5 years.

Liebherr is European and good. Expensive though.

Depth is the measurement most forget, check it fits. A deeper one is a good way to get more capacity.

Make a decision on your fridge freezer split. I do a lot of batch cooking, so went for 50/50 to get more room in the freezer.

I had one with a bottom freezer and also a side by side and hated them both. A traditional top door freezer really is the best.

Get one with as few chips and features outside of it making things cold. The dumber your fridge/freezer the less problems you’ll have.

I prefer an under fridge drawer style frezzer. I find it easier to use and less likely to have to chase a frozen whatever across the kitchen.

Stainless or white smooth finishes can work as a whiteboard for DRY ERASE markers.

If you want an ice maker do NOT get an in door model. Those will freeze up and break non-stop. Get a top fridge/bottom freezer with ice maker in the freezer. There is less of a thaw freeze cycle in the integrated cube maker vs the in door version. That’s what breaks in door ice makers.

Smart/App:

1. Ignore the App and “buhuuu smarrrtt bad”!warning here and rather look at the brand more exactly and do your own due diligence. Is a cloud app bad? Yes,maybe. (But tbh, the amount of information given out is somewhat negligible here) BSH (Bosch-Siemens Hausgeräte, incl. Neff and Gagenau) offers HomeConnect that at least is within GDPR reach. Even better: If you already have a Home Assistant instance running there is a “Home Connect local” integration that,well, gives you the important benefits while keeping it local. Liebherr offers the “Smart Box” as an upgrade that your install yourself,but as far as I know there is no proper way to keep it offline. But Liebherr has a fair share of privacy certifications at least (and a lot to loose as loosing them for their “sidemarket” of household cooling appliances and thereby fucking over their professional market would really bite them…not that that is a guarantee, but…maybe it helps…

There are a few Asian brands that work with Tuya (which is a data security/privacy nightmare) but also support Tuya local (without cloud).

The information security risk for these solutions,especially when using proper network segmentation (which is easily done - if you aren’t into IT then get a Omada combined router and be done in 1h)… Last but not least: You can of course smarten up your fridge yourself. Get a binary door opening sensor, wireless temperature probe and most importantly a power measuring plug (Nous A1T are Tasmota based and cheap) so you can find out early if your device fucks up.

Besides that’Considering the energy prices here get the most efficient one you can afford. It will get amortization sooner than you think.

That setup is not for everyone but if I had to get a new set right now I’d buy a medium sized fridge with a glass door (I already have a small one in my office and I love being able to see what’s inside without leaving the door open, the brand is called Klarstein) and a chest freezer. Chest freezers are way more efficient because the cold air stays put when you open them and they’re just practical for using all of the available space.

I bought a new fridge freezer recently. It was tricky because of limited width, but I’m happy with the Bosch I chose (it was on special). Freezer’s at the bottom, with drawers, which I’ve grown to appreciate. I was also dubious about the bigger veggie drawer, but actually it’s great.

Small thing, but if you’re torn between two or more choices look and see if one uses accessible screws to attach handles. Mine are kind of snap on and one of them is loose. I’m thinking I have a 30% chance of breaking something plastic during removal and having to buy a completely new handle.

Make sure that the door style you choose fits with the space you have available. My fridge is kind right by pathway, so we have the dual-door style, to minimize blocking the path.

I also like using magnets on the fridge. Iirc, some stainless steel refrigerators aren’t magnet-sticky (10 pts if you can tell me what word I forgot).

We’ve been happy with our Bosch.

Isn’t freezer = more fridge? why you need a fridge then?